Guide · Production planning

Clothing MOQs Explained: Why Small Runs Cost More

What a minimum order quantity really is, why 50 pieces costs more per unit than a larger run, and how to plan a first order that still makes commercial sense.

By the STRAITLOOM teamPublished 7 min read

What an MOQ actually is

A minimum order quantity (MOQ) is the smallest number of pieces a manufacturer will produce for one order. It is often presented as a single number, but it is really the point at which a run becomes worthwhile for everyone involved: the garment factory, the mill that supplies the fabric or yarn, and the companies that make your labels, zips, buttons and packaging.

That is why two manufacturers can quote very different minimums for what looks like the same hoodie or pair of jeans. One may be quoting against a stock fabric that is already on the shelf; another may be assuming a custom colour that has to be dyed for you.

For a new brand, the useful question is rarely “what is your MOQ?” on its own. It is “what is the smallest run that works for this product, in this fabric and colour, and what does each piece cost at that quantity?”

Why small runs cost more per piece

Most of the work needed to start production happens once per order, whatever the quantity. Patterns are finalised and graded across sizes. A cutting layout (the marker) is planned for the fabric width. Machines are set up, operators learn the construction, and for denim the wash recipe is tested and adjusted. Quality checks and paperwork follow the same steps for 50 pieces as for 500.

These fixed costs are shared across every piece in the run. With fewer pieces, each one carries a bigger share. The table below uses round, purely illustrative figures to show the effect — they are not prices for any real product.

Illustration only — fixed set-up costs shared across a run
Run sizeSet-up share per piecePer-piece making costTotal per piece
50 pcs20.0012.0032.00
100 pcs10.0012.0022.00
300 pcs3.3312.0015.33
500 pcs2.0012.0014.00

Assumes 1,000 in fixed set-up costs and 12 per piece in materials and sewing, in any currency. Real costs vary widely by product, fabric and finish.

The pattern is what matters: the jump from 50 to 100 pieces has a much bigger effect on unit cost than the jump from 300 to 500. Small runs also tend to lose some of the efficiency a sewing line gains as operators get into rhythm, and fabric bought in small lengths is often priced higher per metre.

The minimums behind the minimum

A garment factory’s minimum is only one of several. In practice, the strictest of these sets the real limit for your order.

Fabric and yarn

Mills and yarn suppliers have their own minimums, especially for custom colours, which are dyed in lots. If the fabric you want is only available in a quantity larger than your run needs, the options are usually to pay a surcharge, buy and hold the extra fabric, or choose a fabric that is already in stock. In practice, fabric and yarn are the main constraint on small knitwear and denim runs — far more often than the sewing.

Trims and components

Woven labels, custom zips, branded buttons and rivets, printed swing tags and packaging are each made by specialist suppliers with their own minimums. Standard components are easier to buy in small quantities than custom-branded ones.

Finishing

Processes such as garment washing or dyeing run in batches. A specialist denim wash, for example, needs its recipe tested and approved before bulk production, and that development time is the same whether the run is small or large.

Per style, per colour, per size

Before comparing quotes, check what each manufacturer’s number actually refers to. “100 pieces” might mean:

  • Per order — 100 pieces across several styles. This is the most flexible and the least common.
  • Per style — 100 pieces of one design, which may be split across colours.
  • Per style, per colour — 100 pieces of each colourway. Three colours would then mean 300 pieces.

Size spread matters too. A run of 50 pieces split across six sizes leaves only a handful of garments in each, which is workable but should be planned deliberately against what your customers actually buy.

Starting smaller without wasting money

If your budget or demand only supports a small first run, these choices usually make the biggest difference:

  1. Choose an available fabric. A stock fabric or yarn colour avoids custom dye-lot minimums. Save custom colours for a later run once a style has proven itself.
  2. Launch fewer colourways. One or two core colours per style keep each colour above the practical minimum.
  3. Share fabrics across styles. A hoodie and jogger in the same fleece, or two denim fits in the same fabric, let you reach fabric minimums together.
  4. Keep trims simple at first. Branded labels matter; custom-moulded hardware can wait.
  5. Accept a higher unit cost, knowingly. A small test run at a higher price can still be the right decision if it tells you what sells before you commit to volume. Build that cost into your margin rather than hoping it disappears.

Sampling is a separate step from the bulk minimum. You will normally approve a sample before production, and samples are typically priced well above bulk unit cost because they are made individually.

Questions to ask a manufacturer

  • Does your minimum apply per order, per style or per colour?
  • Is the limit set by your factory or by the fabric, yarn or trims I have chosen?
  • What is the unit price at my quantity, and at what quantity does it change meaningfully?
  • Is there a stock fabric or yarn that would lower the minimum for this design?
  • What sampling is needed before bulk, and how is it priced?
  • How should I split my quantity across sizes for a first run?

Clear answers to these questions make quotes from different suppliers genuinely comparable.

How we approach first orders

STRAITLOOM works with experienced production teams in Turkey on denim, knitwear, hoodies and sweatshirts. For suitable projects, a first run can start from approximately 50 pieces. That is not a fixed minimum for every product: the fabric, colour, wash and construction decide what is practical, and small runs carry a noticeably higher unit cost. Runs of 100 pieces or more usually give better unit economics.

We review each brief before confirming a minimum or a price. If you share your product, preferred fabric and an approximate quantity, our team will tell you what is realistic for that specific collection and where a different choice of fabric or colour could make the numbers work. Request a production quote to start the conversation.

Keep reading

  1. 01Clothing manufacturing in TurkeyDenim, knitwear and casualwear development, sampling and production with STRAITLOOM.
  2. 02Why manufacture in Turkey?Proximity to UK and European markets, textile expertise and practical trade considerations.
  3. 03Request a production quoteShare your product, quantity and references. Our team confirms the practical minimum for your brief.

Plan your first run

Share your
brief.

Tell us the product, fabric and approximate quantity. Our team reviews the practical minimum and unit economics for your specific collection.

Request a production quote